Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Wednesday 23 January, 2008

It's been a fairly busy time since our last post so we will try to keep it short, sweet but informative.

The last time we wrote was from Mendoza, Argentina - the renowned stepping stone to a host of large Argentinian wineries. With no wine tours running we high-tailed it out and back over the Andes. Via Santiago (narrowly spotting the sly chilean hand on a bag before it was stolen) and through to Chillán. We spent two days in what was a fairly quaint, quiet town. We caught a local bus to the base of Termas de Chillán (a ski resort) and hiked up but otherwise took it fairly easy.

Pucon, Chile - the Lakes region
We had a great time in Pucon hiking through the rain, hail and snow around lakes in the National Park and relaxing in the 30C+ thermal springs. We were going to climb the snow-covered active Volcan Villarica, but bad weather changed that plan.


Across the border via Panguipilli
From Pucon we decided to take a slightly alternate but very scenic route to cross the border from Chile to Argentina. We headed to small town Panguipulli (Chile) where people were lazing on the beach (which was really the lake) with a snow-covered volcanoe in the background - quite bizarre. Here we managed to catch a local chilean band too.

Our path across the Chile/Argentinian border was very interesting.... we caught a bus from Panguipulli to Puerto Fuy and then a car/passenger ferry across a lake, where it was about 7km to the border. We were assured there would be a bus to take us from the ferry to the border, but when we arrived there was no bus or other form of transport! So with our 20kg+ of luggage each, we began to walk the 7km to cross the border. We tried hitching a ride but no luck - until the chilean police pulled over. They motioned for us to get in the back of their ute - and off we went! They dropped us at the Chilean border, but not further. We then had to walk through no-man's land for 4km to the Argentinian border. From this border we waited for about 2 hours, flagged down a tourist bus and managed to get a ride to San Martin de Los Andes, where we had booked accommodation.

On arriving in San Martin at 8:30pm, we found that our hostel booking had been given away and as there was no petrol in San Martin no one could get out, so all the accommodation (in our budget anyway) was gone! We asked a real estate agent if she could help us, but as she knew of the accommodation shortage, she just asked us to come and stay with her and her UK husband! So we accepted their very generous offer and had a lovely local stay in San Martin with Sonia and John (photo of house to the right). San Martin is where all the elite Argentinians spend their summer and winter holidays and is the base of a ski resort - the locals call it the Argentinian Aspen! With Pete's dodgy knee and windy weather, we spent the day kicking back in our hosts' home drinking coffee and reading books.


From San Martin, we caught the bus to Bariloche, where we are now! We love Bariloche and all the lakes region - it is so unbelievably beautiful and there is so much to do around here! In Bariloche we have been up to the vantage point of Cerro Otto
and took a tour to see the black glacier. (photos - view from Cerro Otto over Bariloche and the black glacier)


We have decided to extend our time in the Chilean and Argentinian lakes region by 2 weeks, so we are not going to Rio for Carnival... a tough decision but we love this area so much and would love to see Rio outside of the Carnival madness. We have hired a car (same as a small barina) and bought some camping gear, so will drive, hike and camp around the lakes region before heading down to Patagonia. (photo - Pete in front of Monte Tronador, Bariloche)


That's it from us for now! Love to all, Pete and Soph

Sunday, January 6, 2008

NYE, Valparaiso, Viña and Mendoza

From bright coloured houses, cobblestone streets and a mess of power cables in Valparaiso, Chile to head-sized completos in Viña del Mar and through the Andes to Mendoza, Argentina, here we are...

NEW YEAR´S EVE
We saw the Old out and the New Year in with far less style than we're used to at the Balmain mansion in Sydney. Our hostel threw a $6000 (that's chilean pesos - AU$12) 3-course + drinks NYE party which was a nice easy option and as it turned out, a very good way to destroy any prior progress on the jet-lag front. To keep a short story even shorter, we had a fantastic meal and a few glasses of wine before heading into the centre of town with the Hostel buddies to see the fireworks. More interseting than the fireworks was the amazing amount of confetti that was thrown into the air, into eyes and up noses and is still being found in clothes now. A good NYE, chilean style...

SANTIAGO
Our last day in Santiago saw us pike out of the climb up to the top of Cerro San Cristobel in favour of the 'ascendor'. At 30º celsius it probably wasn't a bad decision. The top of the mountain offered fantastic views of the city of Santiago and was a great place to sit for a while.

All in all, Santiago was good. A bit on the expensive side but still well and truly worth the visit.


VALPARAISO
After Santiago we caught an early bus to Valparaiso. The iconic town famous for it's ridiculously steep, cobble-stoned streets and colorful buildings. Soph had plenty of time to take photos of the buildings, the town and, of course, doors. A fantastic place to walk around and some nice (but expensive) little bars to have a drink with a view of the harbour and landscape.

For curiosity's sake and not through sheer laziness, we took a few of the 'ascendors' that are dotted around the city to take people from town up an all-but-vertical hill to their homes, minimarkets and restaurants.

VIÑA DEL MAR
One stop around Valparaiso that we could absolutely not miss was Viña Del Mar which is as to Santiago as the central coast is to Sydney. The main reason for this is, as you can see to the right, the head-sized completos (hotdog with onion, avocado and mayo). We trawled the streets for a good half an hour in search of completos whose vendor Soph could vaguely remember but at last... success!

MENDOZA
A 400km, 9 hour bus ride took us through the Andes to Mendoza, Argentina. Great views coming through the mountains but since Mendoza is famed for its proximity to vineyards and no tours are running, we're out of here tonight.

Asta luego!