Sunny Sucre and Lofty La Paz, Bolivia

SUCRE

Our bus from Uyuni to Sucre went via Potosi and we were advised by the agent that the same bus would continue to Sucre. When the bus arrived in Potosi at 2am, the driver realised that only four people were going to Sucre. Instead of getting us back in the bus he dumped us in a car (us, one of our travelling friends and an old Bolivian woman). After about 30 minutes the driver looked and seemed incredibly tired, which he happily admitted. Pete offered to drive and he took up the offer. So off we went with Pete at the wheel for about an hour before he asked Pete to pull over by the side of the road because he needed to sleep for a little while - 15 minutes he said he needed as the road ahead was dangerous. So there we sat, twiddling our thumbs at 4am in the morning on a Bolivian highway with a driver who needed to sleep and did so. We woke him up 15 minutes after he dozed off and he rolled over mumbling "Quince minutes mas" ("15 more minutes", somewhat reminiscent of my (Pete's) uni days). So we gave him 15 minutes more and then he took the wheel (and both sides of the road). It didn't help to see him sign the crucifix, head-chest-shoulder-shoulder at each corner or to see the old Bolivian woman ply him with Coca leaves and tell him not to fall asleep... Anyway, after much prayer and too many heartbeats, we made it to Sucre. Sucre has been amazing. It wasn't originally on our agenda but it's an absolutely beautiful city and we're glad we made the detour. We have spent most of our time reading and planning and visiting museums - the poor Bolivians have fought the Spanish crown for independence, Brazil, Peru, Chile, Argentina and Paraguay all in the last 70-odd years. In the battle of the Pacific against Chile they lost the port of Antofagasta, leaving them landlocked and unable to export the huge amount of minerals and gas they'd like to. The result of this is that they refuse to sell gas to Chile (one previously incumbent president tried and was swiftly deposed) but rather to Argentina who sell it to Chile at a premium. Picture outside a Catholic church on Palm Sunday. And we have another overnight bus to La Paz to look forward to now!

LA PAZ

La Paz has turned out to be a great place and we have really enjoyed our time here. We have spent about 4 days exploring the city, which is situated 3660m above sea level. The city´s buildings cling to the sides of a canyon and spill downwards, it is quite amazing and breathtaking. In the background of the city you can see the 6402m Mt Illamani. It is quite difficult to breath here with the altitude, so everyone has to walk pretty slowly! We took a city tour by bus which was incredibly touristy but really informative, have wandered the 'black market', tourist markets, gone through the San Francisco Church (and walked on the roof of it!) and had our first day away from each other! Pete opted to do a day of downhill mountain bike riding, not on 'The World's Most Dangerous Road' (which sounded a bit tame) but on the more challenging 48km 'Ghost Ride'. Starting on a snow capped mountain at 4900m, Pete conquered the tricky tracks and lot of big rocks, with only a few minor falls. The day ended with a tour of a haunted castle. Soph chose to head to Huayna-Potosi (6088m) for some walking and glacier climbing. Walking in the altitude was very difficult and frequent stops were required. At about 5200m, Soph and the group learnt how to ice climb... it was cold and wet, but quite exhilarating. Unfortunately the altitude got the better of Soph and she returned to La Paz with a pounding headache, was dizzy and nauseous and went straight to bed :(